From 2005 to 2013, it was widely used in the 1 Series, 3 Series, 5 Series, Z4, X Series, etc.

As a result of being used in so many models, the parts that will break down due to aging are roughly fixed.

If you perform preventive maintenance in advance and have spare parts on hand, you should be able to avoid sudden trouble while you’re out and about.

We’ll explain everything from serious trouble that can keep you from getting home, to the causes of engine malfunctions.

The part prices are OE part prices at FCP Euro.

Serious troubles that will prevent you from going home

1. Alternator
2. Battery
3. Radiator hose, coolant hose
4. Water pump & thermostat
5. Oil filter housing

1 Alternator

The alternator, which is responsible for generating electricity, is not a particularly fragile part, but it can cause the amount of electricity generated to become unstable or overcharge due to deterioration over time.

If it gets bad, the engine may suddenly stop.
It also cuts off the power supply to the power steering pump, making the steering extremely heavy.
Be careful, as there may be warning signs such as errors in the IBS (intelligent battery sensor) or water pump.

The alternator is quite an expensive part to replace, but in many cases, it seems that the problem can be improved by replacing the voltage regulator, which costs about one-tenth the cost of the alternator itself. It can be done DIY.
Bosch regulator $40-, bolt kit $21-

By the way, my car had a problem where the alternator pulley came off while driving, damaging the tension pulley and belt. If you hear any strange noises, stop and check.

2 Battery

Although it is not strictly an engine part, the battery will last for 2-3 years.

If the engine won’t start, the lights are weak, the air conditioner doesn’t work, the wipers are slow, etc., it may be time to change the battery.

You can replace it yourself, but you will need to register the battery after replacing it, so you will need a compatible OBDII reader.

BMW’s battery is located in the trunk due to the weight distribution between the front and rear.
However, if you are jumping when the battery is dead, do not connect the jump cable directly to the battery.
This may destroy the electrical circuit and require unnecessary part replacement.
Always jump using the red terminal in the engine compartment and the body ground.

3 Radiator hose, coolant hose

If cooling water leaks from the radiator hose or coolant hose, it can cause the engine to stop.

There are three points you should pay particular attention to.

1. The flange connecting the thermostat to the cylinder head
2. The outlet from the upper radiator hose to the reserve tank
3. The vent line returning to the reserve tank at the top of the radiator

In particular, 1 is made of plastic and will crumble under the heat of the engine, oil, and coolant, so it is best to replace it with an aftermarket metal part as soon as possible.

All can be replaced by DIY.

Radiator upper hose $30, coolant hose flange $25, vent line $30

4 Water pump & thermostat

The water pump and thermostat will break after about 100,000 km due to aging.
If they break, the car will not be able to be driven, so if you think it’s about time to replace them, we recommend replacing them as soon as possible.

You can replace them yourself, but you will need to work from underneath, so a floor jack and jack stands (horseback) are essential.

Water pump and thermostat $370 (bolts and coolant included)

5 Oil filter housing

The oil filter housing next to the cylinder head, oil leaks from here in particular need to be dealt with as soon as possible.
It can cause deterioration of the coolant hose flange mentioned above, and oil can adhere to the belt, causing serious damage to auxiliary equipment.

If you notice oil seeping, take action as soon as possible. You can replace it yourself.

Gasket $12-, Bolt $12-

Engine lumpy trouble

6. Ignition coil & spark plug
7. VANOS solenoid
8. Camshaft position sensor
9. Crankshaft position sensor
10. PCV valve

6 Ignition coil & spark plug

If the engine is rumbling or you feel vibrations when waiting at traffic lights, the direct ignition coil of one of the cylinders may be defective. In this case, you need to replace the coil and plug.

It used to be made by BOSCH, but it has now been updated and it seems that Delphi coils and NGK spark plugs are good.

By the way, it is not good to mix BOSCH and Delphi coils. In this case, replace all cylinders with Burn. It can be replaced by DIY.

Coil + plug kit $240- (for 6 pieces)

7 VANOS solenoid

The VANOS solenoid on the front of the cylinder head is directly involved in controlling the valve lift amount, and if the VANOS solenoid malfunctions, the engine will rumble.

Simply remove the VANOS solenoid and clean it with a cleaner, but it would be even better if you could use a 9V battery to operate the solenoid and clean the dirt inside as well. This can be done DIY.

If you replace the part, the genuine one costs $201-

8 Camshaft position sensor

The camshaft position sensor is located near the VANOS solenoid. It is involved in controlling the ignition timing.
If it malfunctions, the engine will rumble.

This will be handled by replacing the part. It can be replaced DIY.
Sensor $52-

9 Crankshaft Position Sensor

The crankshaft position sensor is located at the bottom of the intake manifold. It also controls the ignition timing. If it malfunctions, the engine will rumble.

This can be done by replacing the part. It can be replaced by DIY, but it is located quite deep inside, so you need to completely remove the manifold or use a long extension to access it through the gap between the parts, which is difficult. (It’s mainly just the location that’s difficult.)

Sensor $73-

10 PCV Valve

In the old model, it’s located inside the manifold, and in the new model, it’s located behind the valve cover.
If it malfunctions, the engine will rumble.

This can be done by replacing the part. It can be replaced by DIY, but it’s located quite deep inside, so it’s quite difficult.

Problems that should be fixed if you have the chance

11. Valve cover oil leak
12. Oil pan oil leak
13. Engine mount lifespan

11 Valve cover oil leak

This is caused by the aluminum bolts stretching.
If oil leaks into the plug hole, ignition failure will occur, so depending on the symptoms, immediate action is required.

It can be replaced at DIV, but it takes time because many bolts need to be replaced and torque management is also important.
Gasket kit $107-

12 Oil pan oil leak

This is also a chronic condition, just like the valve cover.
However, while it is possible to replace the gasket itself by DIY, it is necessary to remove the subframe to remove the oil pan, and DIY work is very difficult.
You will need a floor jack, jack stands, and an engine hanger (something to hang from above).
Gasket $35-, Bolt set $34-

13 Engine mount

The engine mount, which supports the engine from below at two points on the left and right, will deteriorate and become unusable after about 100,000 km.

It is possible to replace it yourself, but since it is a part replacement in a narrow, deep space, it is quite a difficult job.

Engine mount kit $170-

I encountered an issue where the model would not adhere to the build plate. The filament is PLA.

I dealt with the issue in the following order:

1. Make the X-axis parallel to the Z-axis

2. Adjust the Z-axis. It is within approximately 0.20 mm.

3. Adjust the filament and build plate.

I set the build plate temperature to 210 degrees and 70 degrees, respectively, which are higher.

4. Set the brim.

5. Slow down the Initial Printing Speed. I set it to 1/4 of the initial value.

6. Increase the height and width of the Initial Layer.

With these adjustments, I am now able to print without any problems.

1 Drain the tofu

2 Place in a colander, salt, and dry

3. When the water has drained out and the outside has turned yellow and hard

4　It can be done by soaking it in a dipping sauce of rice koji, salt, red koji, and awamori (substitute with vodka) and leaving it at room temperature.

For now, let’s leave it for about two weeks.

Ingredients

• 500g firm tofu
• 350g rice koji
• 40g salt
• Appropriate amount of awamori (over 40% alcohol)
• 2/3 teaspoon red koji
• A little sugar

Process

1. Cut the tofu into 2-3cm cubes
2. Drain the water. Drain with kitchen paper
3. Sprinkle with salt and let dry until the surface is hard
4. Mix rice koji, red koji, salt, and sugar to make the dipping sauce
5. Put the tofu in a Tupperware and sprinkle with 4
6. Pour in awamori until the tofu is submerged
7. Put in a boiled and sterilized Tupperware and let it mature

It seems to be drying nicely.

It doesn’t have any unpleasant smell.

Rinse with water.

I sliced ​​it thinly and tasted it, and it was a little salty, so I soaked it for about 10 minutes to remove the salt.

Wipe off the moisture, wrap it in cooking paper, and start the drying process.
It will be ready to eat in about a week.

It’s made of wood, but it’s completely waterproof and can be used as a blast cabinet with no problems.
Compared to iron cabinets, which require sheet metal welding, the hurdle is low. To be honest, I can make it with just the tools I have on hand.

However, if I were to make it as is, the size would be a little large.
Maybe I should shrink it to the commonly used cabinet size of 93×58?
Astro Product’s SB846 is this size. Hmm, I’m having a hard time deciding.

I tried to make my dream bike.
Based on an air-cooled Ducati 900SS, in the style of a ’76 TT1

• The rear of the frame has been cut off
• The fairing, tank and single seat are one-off
• Inverted forks and modern radial brakes
• The headlight is an external HELLA
• Megaphone-style 2-1 silencer

I want a bike like that. Should I make one?

1 Make holes on both sides,

2 Rub salt in

3 Rub in herbs

4 Wrap in kitchen paper and let sit in the refrigerator.

It will take about two weeks for the moisture to be removed and it will be completed. (Apparently)

This time, I changed the position of the battery and rerouted the wiring, and I think it fit in pretty well.

I ended up placing the regulator, coil and igniter just behind the stem,

with the FCR behind that and the battery just in front of the vertical cylinder.

The current FCR uses a funnel, but with this arrangement, the air cleaner should fit in without any problems.

The FCR settings are

• Needle OCEMR 4th stage
• Main jet 155
• Throttle = Jet 60
• Pilot screw 1-1/4 return
• Slow air jet 1/2 return

I’m using a two-strand throttle cable, but it’s a bit stiff.

Sometimes the FCR return spring alone won’t return it.

If greasing doesn’t fix it, should I reroute the cable?

My daughter sometimes cooks, but I wonder if she is treating them roughly?

I was curious, so I tried sharpening my knives.

The main knives we use are the G-4 Bunka 18cm and GS-3 paring knife from Yoshida Metal Industry, a global brand that Japan is proud of around the world.

The process is to sharpen these with a Suehiro whetstone, 1000 grit, and finish with 3000 grit.

When the blade is evenly sharpened, it’s done.

I noticed that the G-4 blade was chipped in places, so a coarser whetstone was needed.