I encountered an issue where the model would not adhere to the build plate. The filament is PLA.

I dealt with the issue in the following order:

1. Make the X-axis parallel to the Z-axis

2. Adjust the Z-axis. It is within approximately 0.20 mm.

3. Adjust the filament and build plate.

I set the build plate temperature to 210 degrees and 70 degrees, respectively, which are higher.

4. Set the brim.

5. Slow down the Initial Printing Speed. I set it to 1/4 of the initial value.

6. Increase the height and width of the Initial Layer.

With these adjustments, I am now able to print without any problems.

1 Drain the tofu

2 Place in a colander, salt, and dry

3. When the water has drained out and the outside has turned yellow and hard

4　It can be done by soaking it in a dipping sauce of rice koji, salt, red koji, and awamori (substitute with vodka) and leaving it at room temperature.

For now, let’s leave it for about two weeks.

Ingredients

• 500g firm tofu
• 350g rice koji
• 40g salt
• Appropriate amount of awamori (over 40% alcohol)
• 2/3 teaspoon red koji
• A little sugar

Process

1. Cut the tofu into 2-3cm cubes
2. Drain the water. Drain with kitchen paper
3. Sprinkle with salt and let dry until the surface is hard
4. Mix rice koji, red koji, salt, and sugar to make the dipping sauce
5. Put the tofu in a Tupperware and sprinkle with 4
6. Pour in awamori until the tofu is submerged
7. Put in a boiled and sterilized Tupperware and let it mature

It seems to be drying nicely.

It doesn’t have any unpleasant smell.

Rinse with water.

I sliced ​​it thinly and tasted it, and it was a little salty, so I soaked it for about 10 minutes to remove the salt.

Wipe off the moisture, wrap it in cooking paper, and start the drying process.
It will be ready to eat in about a week.

It’s made of wood, but it’s completely waterproof and can be used as a blast cabinet with no problems.
Compared to iron cabinets, which require sheet metal welding, the hurdle is low. To be honest, I can make it with just the tools I have on hand.

However, if I were to make it as is, the size would be a little large.
Maybe I should shrink it to the commonly used cabinet size of 93×58?
Astro Product’s SB846 is this size. Hmm, I’m having a hard time deciding.

I tried to make my dream bike.
Based on an air-cooled Ducati 900SS, in the style of a ’76 TT1

• The rear of the frame has been cut off
• The fairing, tank and single seat are one-off
• Inverted forks and modern radial brakes
• The headlight is an external HELLA
• Megaphone-style 2-1 silencer

I want a bike like that. Should I make one?

1 Make holes on both sides,

2 Rub salt in

3 Rub in herbs

4 Wrap in kitchen paper and let sit in the refrigerator.

It will take about two weeks for the moisture to be removed and it will be completed. (Apparently)

This time, I changed the position of the battery and rerouted the wiring, and I think it fit in pretty well.

I ended up placing the regulator, coil and igniter just behind the stem,

with the FCR behind that and the battery just in front of the vertical cylinder.

The current FCR uses a funnel, but with this arrangement, the air cleaner should fit in without any problems.

The FCR settings are

• Needle OCEMR 4th stage
• Main jet 155
• Throttle = Jet 60
• Pilot screw 1-1/4 return
• Slow air jet 1/2 return

I’m using a two-strand throttle cable, but it’s a bit stiff.

Sometimes the FCR return spring alone won’t return it.

If greasing doesn’t fix it, should I reroute the cable?